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Review of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical: The Definitive Contemporary Field Watch
Jul
It’s both an accurate throwback to vintage mil-spec watches and an impressively-finished timepiece for its price.
Despite being released only in 2017, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is so popular, so basic and so genuine that it feels like a part of the horological landscape that’s always been there. In addition to its ruggedness, versatility, personality, and Swiss quality, it makes a great starting point for many modern watch collectors. It’s a modern classic, in part because it’s rooted in history.
The origins of the current fascination with military timepieces are difficult to pinpoint. Wristwatches and war have been connected since the early days of pilots and soldiers strapping pocketwatches to their wrists, even before World War I. Watch enthusiasts have always shown interest in these artifacts, but recently, even stylish young men without a deep knowledge of watches have taken notice. The popularity of vintage watches, in general, may contribute to this trend, but there’s something unique about field watches. They have become a prominent category alongside dive watches and pilot’s watches.
A 1960s Benrus DTU2A/P and a 1980s Hamilton MIL-W-46374D.
Interestingly, Timex was ahead of the curve in this regard. Collaborating with Todd Snyder, they drew inspiration from the Vietnam-era general issue field watches made by manufacturers like Benrus and Hamilton. While made by different companies, these watches adhered to specific specifications set by the U.S. Government.
The MIL-W-3818B, introduced in 1962 and later evolving into the MIL-W-46374, served as the predecessor to these watches. The latter specification has persisted for decades with several revisions, the most recent being in 1999. Though there have been tweaks and improvements over the years, the fundamental design and layout have remained unchanged.
Now, let’s turn our attention to the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. While it is not technically a continuation of those military watches and does not meet current military specifications, its appearance is almost indistinguishable from the vintage mil-spec Hamilton watches of the past. It shares many features with those timepieces and pays homage to them, albeit with an added touch of authenticity. It’s the perfect watch to complement a bomber jacket or leather boots.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical: What We Think
In the realm of affordable mechanical watches, the Hamilton Field Khaki stands out, offering an impressive combination of design and tactile pleasure. The meticulous details that accurately recreate the early Hamilton mil-spec watches are sure to captivate both seasoned and new collectors. If you’ve been contemplating an upgrade from your Timex to a timepiece with more durability and horological significance, it’s hard to think of a watch that offers everything the Field Khaki does at its price point.
It Packs a Hell of a Value
Vintage Hamilton mil-spec watches from the ’60s and ’70s are relatively easy to find and acquire without breaking the bank. However, owning one comes with the quirks and questionable reliability that come with decades-old timepieces.
Enter the Field Khaki Mechanical—a watch that, to the untrained eye, looks like an authentic vintage piece from that era, thanks to the thoughtful design by Hamilton. It serves as an excellent alternative that requires far less maintenance. Starting at under $600, you get a Swiss-made hand-winding timepiece with a sapphire crystal, making it an exceptional value, even considering the recent price increase (like everything else in the world).
Given its affordability, the Field Khaki Mechanical will undoubtedly be a popular choice for those seeking their first mechanical watch, especially if they developed a fondness for watches through Timex’s military-inspired collaborations. However, it’s not just novices who will appreciate it; watch enthusiasts, particularly those with a penchant for military pieces, will also enjoy its faithful vintage design and hand-winding movement.
The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical looks like a vintage military watch but includes desirable features such as sapphire crystal.
It’s Got an Authenticity That Goes Beyond Merely Its Looks
Watchmakers have always recognized the value of embracing history and reviving old models through reissues. In recent years, this approach has become dominant in the industry. Numerous reinterpretations that look and feel like the originals are now available, and the Hamilton Khaki Field was one of the early standouts—and it remains one of the best. Its success lies in its simplicity, just like the watches that served as its inspiration.
Hamilton offers the watch on a NATO-style strap with a bit more luxury touches than genuinely military equipment would offer, but we’re not complaining.
A quick comparison of the MIL-W-46374 and the Khaki Field Mechanical confirms their striking resemblance. The watch features minimal branding, with only the Hamilton logo and “Swiss Made” at the bottom of the dial. There is no date window, just a clean, purposeful, and legible dial—a true representation of military function-first design. The font used on the Khaki Field closely resembles that of the MIL-W-46374, and the tan-hued lume on the chapter ring and hands replicates the look of faded tritium.
It’s Small, as a Field Watch Should Be
The Khaki Field Mechanical has a relatively small case size of 38mm, at least by modern standards. The original mil-spec timepieces of the ’60s were even smaller, at 34mm, a size that was once reserved for women’s watches but has seen a recent resurgence. The slight increase in size is understandable, and Hamilton managed to keep the matte-finished case incredibly thin at 9.5mm, contributing to its vintage appeal. It’s worth noting that Hamilton also offers a 42mm version for those who prefer a larger watch.
Thanks to its hand-wound movement, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical measures only 9.5mm thick.
Its Hand-Winding Movement Is No Small Part of Its Charm
Inside the Khaki Field Mechanical beats a hand-winding movement. While the first generation of this watch used an ETA 2804-2, the current generation features an updated movement called the H-50. This evolution of movements, including the 2804, offers various upgrades, most notably an extended power reserve of 80 hours. A longer power reserve is especially appreciated in hand-wound watches, as they require manual winding to keep them running.
The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical comes in a range of variants offering different dial colors and even case materials like bronze.
The crown of the watch provides a smooth and tactile winding experience that will resonate with both seasoned enthusiasts and newcomers to mechanical watches. Hamilton’s decision to use a hand-winding movement instead of an automatic one was key to capturing the character and charm of this watch. Its simplicity keeps the watch compact and echoes the no-frills utility of the early mil-spec watches it pays homage to—all of which were also hand-wound.
We Wish It Had Shorter Lugs
While it is challenging to find fault with the Field Khaki Mechanical, if we were to nitpick, it would pertain to the lugs. In our opinion, they are slightly too long. This throws off the proportions of the case and makes the watch wear larger than its 38mm diameter suggests. The larger concern is the wide gap between the spring bar and the case. This may go unnoticed when using a pass-through NATO strap, as the part running under the case back fills the space. However, if you opt for a two-piece leather strap, it may appear slightly awkward.
The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is completely no frills, and that’s what makes it perfect.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical: Alternatives
There are numerous options available for field watches today, but the Hamilton Khaki Field remains the benchmark. Some of the best alternatives come from Hamilton itself, and their faithful reissue of the W10 is particularly noteworthy. As previously mentioned, the Field Khaki does not meet military specifications. However, if you desire an actual mil-spec watch that is brand new, you have a couple of options. Marathon produces watches that adhere to the American MIL-PRF-46374G specification, available in quartz and automatic variants at a lower price point than the Hamilton. While lacking the vintage charm of the Hamilton, they are reliable choices. Similarly, CWC manufactures modern versions of the British G10 from the ’80s, as well as the same W10 as Hamilton from the ’70s. If you’re willing to invest more for refined quality, you may also consider reissues from the resurrected brand Timor, such as their historic “Dirty Dozen” watches.
Overall, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical delivers an exceptional blend of design, craftsmanship, and affordability. Its homage to vintage military watches, combined with its hand-winding movement, makes it a compelling choice for watch enthusiasts seeking a timeless timepiece.